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Triangle & Shield Tutorial

This tool requires that you be able to roll a cone shape before pressing.

Lay down your initial footprint and check the size by either bringing the mandrel down to the base of the tool for reference, or the handle portion of the tool up under your mandrel. It is better to estimate smaller at first because you can always add more to the footprint. Once it's on, you cannot take it off.

 

   


If you've followed our tip about determining how much glass you need  for the cavity, you will know about how much glass to wind onto your mandrel. The picture shows the suggested cone shape before pressing.

Do not press when soupy and fully molten. Wait until your glass starts to slightly 'form a skin' (don't wait too long or you won't be able to press). Allow your glass to begin to settle into the bottom of the tool so it doesn't slide around too much when you begin to press.

   

While centered over the cavity as shown above, press straight down while steadying the tool against the back wall and left pole of the mold.

 

   

You might notice that the cooling of the glass from being in contact with the tools will cause "chill marks" on the surface of your bead. You can either flame polish or leave it as it is.  To keep the faceted look, try to fire polish one facet at a time.

   
If any extra has seeped out the edges you can gently heat and tap them with your marver to coax them back into position.

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